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The Met Gala 2024: What to Expect

BY OLIVIA RYAN

The "Garden of Time" takes over the Red Carpet

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5 MAY - 2024

The Met Gala is upon us, yet again. Come Monday, May 6th, the Costume Institute fundraiser will bring us a slew of celebrities dressed in ensembles that transcend the boundaries of trends and relish in the unashamed indulgence that a ticket affords them.

The Costume Institute exhibition for 2024 was announced as "Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion", a title leaving a lot up for interpretation. However, as is clarified by the actual theme for the evening - “The Garden of Time" - this year, the Gala is not about a regal renaissance, but rather, costume conservation.

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Based on “The Garden of Time'' by J.G. Ballard, the theme references the short story of a Count and Countess who revel in leisure within the walls of their otherworldly, lush villa. Surrounding them is a garden full of flowers boasting a luminous, crystalline quality. On their terrace, from where they gaze at their sprawling estate, the pair observe an enraged mob headed in their direction. The only way to stall their encroachment is to pick a flower from the garden. This proves to be a salve only until there are none left in bloom. When the flowers are all plucked and the mob finally descends on the garden, the couple exist only as statues, now fixed and unmoving, entangled in thorny vines.

Put simply, time and its inevitability is at the heart of the theme, which links closely with clothing preservation. The upcoming exhibition is quite meta in honouring the work that the costume institute itself does - That is, preserving the presence of fashion in the fabric of history by, well, working to preserve literal fabric. The reality is, especially with regards to older works of fashion, most materials used are made from natural resources. As such, they fall victim to light exposure, UV rays, moisture levels, insects and animals, air quality, dust, mold and mildew which inevitably cause them to if not disintegrate then significantly weaken. The exhibition will boast around 250 extremely delicate pieces, which are cared for by professionals trained to prevent their degradation.

The upcoming exhibition is quite meta in honouring the work that the costume institute itself does - That is, preserving the presence of fashion in the fabric of history by, well, working to preserve literal fabric.

To my untrained but eager eye, last year’s ode to Lagerfeld was one of the strongest Met Gala red carpets in a long time. There were ample Chanel motifs on display, coloural adherence to Karl’s monochromania and daring menswear ensembles (which is always, quite literally, at least half the battle). It was a theme that provided a clear cut catalog of references for stylists to pull from. This year's theme, on the other hand, offers far greater room for creative liberty and interpretation.

Despite the inevitability of critiques being guided by personal taste, the fun in the gala is that whether a team chose to embrace or eschew a theme can be easily identified, if not from first glance then through the guests' verbal justification. Ultimately, it’s an exclusive event, shameless in its pomp and splendour at best and considered debaucherous at its worst. So if you have the honour of participating in this fashionable affair, then us couch-bound critics expect your full commitment to ingenuity and thematic respect. If not for yourself then please, for our digital gaze.

With all this in mind, here is what I predict we will see on the red carpet this year in answer to “The Garden of Time”.

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Florals for Spring?

Groundbreaking. An obvious take prompted by the title, expect to see lots of botanical motifs. Giambattista Valli, Dolce and Gabbana and Oscar de la Renta are no stranger to flowers and will undoubtedly be present in couture on the night.

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Giambattista Valli, Spring 2022

Archival Revivals

Fashion historians are in for a treat this year, with the theme serving as a CTA for designers to trawl through their archives and revive some vintage pieces. In the name of fleeting time, there is an exciting opportunity here to ignite our collective cultural memories by revisiting iconic outfits, maybe even on the same stars that debuted them.

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Uovo Fashion Storage, Peter Garritano

Wonderful and Whimsical

A sleeping beauty Aurora reference would be unashamedly literal, but wouldn’t surprise me. I would also bet my bottom dollar on there being an ode to Alice in Wonderland for its temporal and garden thematics. Meanwhile a glimpse “through the looking glass” at Victorian or Elizabethan silhouettes where wealth, like that of the Count and Countess, translated into extravagant gowns will surely be on the radar.

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Elie Saab, Spring/Summer 2017

Darkness and the Cynical

Where there is life, there will come death. Just as there was an angelic take on Heavenly Bodies, there were also gothic, macabre references. I expect to see the same duality present this year. Think exposed boning, tattered hems and pigment drained ensembles. Alexander McQueen, Rick Owens and Iris van Herpen are labels to look out for.

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Alexander McQueen, Spring 2001

Reworked and Recycled fabrics

Sustainability and maximizing the utility of fabrics brings the past into the future, and it doesn’t get much more transient than that. Whether it is transforming waste into unconventional materials, using discarded off-cuts, or reassembling recycled fabrics, there is plenty of opportunity to turn the old into the new. It is in vogue to have a social conscience, so herein lies a P.R. opportunity for designers to assert themselves as environmentally purpose-driven.

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Futurism

As much as time is about looking to the past, there's always the future to consider. My mind is going to metals that stand the test of time and are foundational friends to Jean Paul Gaultier, Versace and Rabanne. Daring glass, ceramic, or acrylic materials may also be used in reference to the unexpected materiality of the flowers in the story. Coperni could also be one to watch after their nasa-approved aerogel bag caused recent online buzz.

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Paco Rabanne

Intricate Pieces

“It took ___ designers___ hours to hand-bead/embroider/stitch this dress”. We have heard a sentence like that countless times on a red carpet. And granted, if we are talking time, it’s an assured way for ateliers to impress. With intricate detail often comes supreme delicacy, befitting no occasion more than this year’s gala.

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Dior, Fall/Winter 2021

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